When designing a garden, focal points are an important concept. A focal point is a feature that draws the eye. This can be anything from a tall tree to a colorful grouping of plants, to a strategically placed statue. Having a focal point (or several) in your landscape or garden gives the whole area a more orderly look.

You can create an eye-catcher by something as simple as planting a tall, colorful plant in the midst of smaller plants in a flower bed. If you already have a naturally imposing feature, such as a large tree, consider placing colorful perennials around it.

Another way to draw the eye is to use bold contrasts. A grouping of bright red or white flowers in the midst of an expanse of green lawn will draw attention. Even a bright color amidst pastels will work.

One of the most popular methods is to use statues and other garden decor, such as fountains, birdbaths or bird feeders. Used as a centerpiece of a design, these are a great way to create a focal point. A driveway or path with brightly colored borders is another popular way to draw attention. Both solid colors and mixed colors can work well here.

A driveway or path with brightly colored borders is another popular way to draw attention. Both solid colors and mixed colors can work well here.

If you are lucky enough to have a naturally good view, use it as a backdrop for a grouping. If you have the sort of yard that lends itself to paths, consider a flower-covered arch trellis as an entry way. Come in and look around; you'll find plenty of good ideas!

A great way to shake off the winter blues and get a jump on spring is to start plants from seed indoors. It's not only fun and easy to do but also rewarding, since it allows home gardeners the opportunity to grow plant varieties that may not be available from local plant growers. The opportunities are endless with many unique varieties of flowers, vegetables, and even ornamental vines available in seed form.

To get started, come visit our seed department. Once you have made your selections, look on the back of the packet for basic information such as germination time and an estimate of how long to grow the plant indoors before transplanting into the garden. Find out the average safe date for transplanting your plant in our area, and then count backwards to find out how early you can start your seeds. If you have a greenhouse or cold frame to transplant into, adjust accordingly.

The best containers to use are shallow seed starting trays with covers. Another option is to use peat pots, but plastic or clay pots will do just fine in a pinch. If using containers from a previous growing season, wash them with a solution of one part household bleach to nine parts water to sterilize them. This helps prevent the transfer of disease.

For good germination results, fill your containers with a light soil mix that has good drainage and moisture retention properties. Do not use garden soil. Make sure to wet your soil mix and allow it to drain before sowing the seeds into your containers.

Find a warm location in your home with plenty of light, or an area where you can mount a light above the plants. Most plants need only moisture and warmth to germinate, but will need the light to grow once they sprout leaves. Plain fluorescent light bulbs are fine when starting seeds but consider using at least one "grow light" tube if you are going to keep the plants under lights for an extended time (if you are trying to get full-sized plants by transplant time, you'll need a grow light or a very bright window). Remember that seedlings will quickly become weak and leggy plants if they don't receive enough light.

Seeds generally need a soil temperature above 65º to germinate. If you have trouble maintaining that temperature, consider using a heating mat. Covering your containers with plastic will help hold in moisture and create a humid environment that encourages the seed to germinate. That's why covered seed starting trays are the easiest containers to use.

Make sure your plants don't get too hot under the plastic, especially if you have the containers in a sunny area or under a warm light. Remove the plastic as soon as you see any signs of germination. Keep the soil mix evenly moist, and use lukewarm water if possible. Water very gently to avoid disturbing the tender seedlings.

When your seed germinates, it will send up a sprout with two seed leaves called cotyledons. After that, true leaves will follow. Begin feeding your seedlings weekly with a half-strength solution of fertilizer (ask us which is best for what you are growing) when the first true leaves develop. Continue feeding the seedlings until they are ready to be transplanted. The plants will be ready when the entire root ball is held together by the plant roots.

Make sure to harden off your plants before transplanting them into the garden. ("Hardening off" is the process of acclimating plants to the light, humidity, and temperatures found outdoors.) Start by placing your seedling containers outdoors in a shaded, sheltered location for a couple of hours per day. Gradually increase the time spent outside by an hour each day for at least a week before transplanting the seedling. With the exception of tomatoes, plant the seedlings at the same level they were grown in their pot. Tomatoes can be buried deeper than they grew in the pot--they will grow roots from the buried portion of the stem.

After transplanting, if your neighbors ask where you bought all those wonderful plants, just tell them, "They're truly homegrown!"

By Tamara Galbraith

Are you a patient gardener? Then leeks, the lazy cousin of the onion, are the veggies for you.

In milder climates, and if you missed planting in the fall, mid- to late-winter is a good time to put in hardy leek transplants. Cold climate gardeners should start their leeks from seed indoors now and wait until early spring to transplant.

After that, be prepared to wait; a good leek takes its time. The toughest varieties can take as long as 125 days to mature. But these cold-tolerant types can also be left in the ground with only a light layer of protection even during frosts and freezes.

Like most root-type crops, leeks prefer deep, loose, well-draining, humus-rich soil. A common practice is to hill compost around each plant as it grows to help blanch and elongate the stem, and to provide nutrients.

Some cold-hardy varieties to look for include 'Alaska', 'American Flag', 'Arkansas', 'Bleu de Solaise', 'Musselburgh' and 'Winter Giant'.

Harvest your leeks when the stem is about 1-1/2 inches in diameter, and before hot weather sets in. Gently loosen the soil around each plant with a spading fork, then pull. Without a doubt, your springtime soups and stews will be more lovely with the addition of leeks.

Keeping your houseplants healthy during winter months may seem difficult. Light from windows is reduced, days are shorter and humidity may be lower due to heating. But by making a few changes, you can help keep your houseplants healthy.

Keeping things light

In winter, your plants receive sunlight for less time and in less intensity. Houseplants out of rainforests that are used to lower light will be fine with that, but most plants need more light. Try to move your plants near a brighter window (S/SW exposure) to get them more sunlight.

If you have no brighter windows (due to shade trees or apartment living), you might want to consider the purchase of plant lamps that are designed to provide the full spectrum light your plants need. They can be mounted under shelves over plants or on specially-designed plant stands. Leave them on about eight hours a day, and they'll give your plants the light they need.

You can also use cool fluorescent bulbs as close as 6 inches from the top of plants.

Temperature

Most plants do not do well when subjected to rapid fluctuations in temperature. Keep them away from hot air sources and cold drafts alike. Run ceiling fans on low if the house is closed up. Fans break up stagnant air; that's healthier for both you and your plants.

Humidity

Some symptoms of low humidity are brown leaf tips and wilting. Low humidity makes your plants work harder to get moisture from the air and soil, as well as keep what they have inside.

One way to give your plants some extra humidity is to mist them two or three times a day. The water will evaporate off the leaves and provide a cloud of higher humidity around the plant. For a less labor-intensive method, put a layer of pebbles in the bottom of a tray and fill the tray with just enough water to cover the bottom of the tray (below the top of the pebbles). Place potted plants in the tray.

Fertilizing should be done less often for most plants in winter.

Other

Give your plants a good washing. Dirt, dust, grease, and other particles can settle on leaves. Leaves that are dirty can't absorb as much sunlight as clean ones. Gently wipe clean the leaves with a soft sponge or cloth dipped in plain water. Sturdier plants can even be given a quick shower in the bathroom with tepid water.

How often should I water my potted plants?

Answer:

Outdoor potted plants tend to dry out more quickly and require more water than plants planted in the landscape. This is because potting soils are lighter in composition and less compact than garden soil. The size of the container also limits the water holding capacity. Watering potted plants once a day or even twice daily may be necessary, especially if the weather turns hot and windy or your containers are in full sunlight.

Indoors, most potted plants tend to be over-watered. They generally don't need to be watered more than once or twice per week.

The important thing is to check moisture levels often. If the potting soil appears pale or cracked, or feels dry below the soil's surface, then it's time to water. If plants are wilted and droopy (or just in a plain old bad mood). then they're already seriously stressed and in need of immediate watering and potentially a trip to a therapist.

The use of a moisture meter can be very helpful. If you don't own a moisture meter, get one--it's better than using your fingers to check, and you'll cut way down on manicure bills.

The idea is to water thoroughly but allow enough time between waterings for the soil to begin drying out. If the potting soil remains soggy for too long, air will be forced away from the roots and your plants may suffocate or drown.

Don't let plants sit in standing water. If a saucer is used under a container, make sure that it does not remain wet for more than an hour or two after watering. Poor drainage and damp soil conditions favor root-killing disease fungi that can develop as root rot and cause the plant to die.

If a potted plant gets too dry, stand the container in a bucket of water, so that it can soak water right up into the soil. This is a better method than watering with a hose or can, as the water will run straight through and around the dry soil where it has shrunk away from the side of the pot.

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